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Where can I find bulb cage/guards for covering light bulbs?

Posted By:

Sparkle

In Relation To:

D'Artagnan [Caulker Cay]

Does anyone have a good cage-building supply source? I need a couple bulb cages/guards to put over the light bulbs so the boas don't burn themselves, and I'm not having any luck finding them online. Optimally I'm looking for a 2-bulb cage so I can put a ceramic 'bulb' in there for night, and a 'day' bulb as well, so they have a day/night cycle.

Also, the enclosure plans I have note to drill vent holes in one end near the top, and the other end near the bottom; am I right in assuming that the top holes are the HOT side and the bottom holes are the COLD side? None of the plans mention which side is the hot or cold.

The enclosures I bought (and I'm fixing up) are 44" long x 14" high x 22" deep INTERIOR dimensions. I've got a while before the boas outgrow their current 10 gallon tanks, so I'm taking my time and making them really nice.

Thanks everyone!


Points:	50
Topics:	Caging , Caging Plans , Heating
Species:	Boas > Small Boas > Boa constrictor imperator
Administrative:	Show/Hide

Member Comment

11/15/2008 8:41:27 AM

AAS

I've had trouble finding anything suitable for some years. I was wondering about the height of your enclosure. In a 14" tall ceiling those heat elements will extend a fair bit into the enclosure, especially if you mount the actual fixtures inside the cage on the ceiling. Might you do better to mount a radiant heat panel (very low profile) and low wattage fluorescent fixtures? No burn risks, non-obtrusive mounting, etc. You could even go with only one fluorescent fixture inside the enclosure for daytime light, then let red or moon lighting from a source outside the cage shine through the vent and/or the doors.

On the vent question, I've seen and read a variety of opinions, on the need for ventilation, on the location of the vents, the loss of humidity and heat, even debate about what defines "adequate" ventilation. (Some even say the only ventilation needed is the space between the sliding glass doors.)   I'm thinking you're trying to create some air movement using the "warm air rises" concept. In a 14" enclosure, I don't think you'll get much differential, considering that you need to leave room from the floor to "lower" vent for substrate. But if I were to guess I'd say put the higher vent on the hot side.

If you look at four or five of the most popular brands and their designs, study the design, you'll see various concepts at play, get an idea on options like this, a lot goes into the planning it seems.  In the end if you learn all you reasonably can about the particular animals needs and design accordingly, always with perfect safety in mind, you got a winner.

Author Comment

11/15/2008 9:46:58 AM

Sparkle

I bought the enclosures used, they are hinged doors not sliding, and the vents are drilled in the back (3 holes in the top right corner and 3 holes in the top left corner). The guy who made it has heat tape built into one side, and the light fixture on the other side, and yes the bulb hung down into the tank. He used no cage or protection around the bulb (40W red bulbs). Seemed like an odd setup to me, but looking at it I guess he couldn't drill the screws for the light fixture through the heat tape so that's why the bulb is at the other end. There are two units, one atop the other, built together. So long as the heat tape generates enough heat, I could go with a fluorescent fixture at the "cool" end, that would give the snakes more space too. Good thought, thanks!

Here's photos, hopefully this link works: http://www.flickr.com/photos/26270948@N06/sets/72157609126476225

I'd still like to build my own enclosures for the two carpet pythons (they will get larger than the Caulker Cay boas, and I'd like to build their tanks a bit taller since they're hardly ever on the ground.

Member Comment

11/15/2008 10:19:32 AM

amarilrose

I'm sure some people do it, but as a general rule I wouldn't be comfortable with any kind of a heat-emitting bulb hanging down inside the enclosure. Any bulb guards you might find will probably be metal, and therefore, won't offer much protection. Personally, I would try to mount a light outside the cage, and cover the opening with "hardware cloth" (1/4 inch metal mesh) or some kind of non-flammable, non-metal screen (if such a thing exists).

Good luck!

Author Comment

11/15/2008 10:45:09 AM

Sparkle

I wasn't comfortable with the bulb hanging unprotected either, but figured a 40W would not throw enough heat to make a bulb cage dangerous. Because of the design of the enclosure I can't put the bulb above/on top, only on the side, which would not provide much heat. I'll go with the fluorescent and add more heat tape if needed, so it won't be an issue. But I'd still like to locate one for my next set of enclosures, since they will be taller... Hence me leaving the question open.

Websearching I've found a couple cool "how to build a viviarium" sites, lots of tips, but no suppliers. I know there's a couple iHerpers who've built their own enclosures, I'm hoping one of them will be able to provide a source for the bulb cage and other needed items.

Accepted Answer

11/15/2008 10:46:03 AM

AAS

I saw the photos, I think I saw the cage at Wheaton once actually. What you have basically are two wood frame chipboard boxes. I'm just typing as I think here, but off the bat I'm thinking...

- Low moisture setups since the cages are wood. Priming and painting will help on that, esp if you use a waterseal primer. I think a gloss black or dark brown would look pretty nice with interior lighting.
- Get rid of any incandescent bulb fixtures internally. The problem with them is safety, snakes coil around them when they're cool, then they turn on, and of course heat very quickly, before the snake realizes there is thermal burn occuring.
- If you go with the belly heat tape you must have a decent thermostat. Heat tape and wood, be careful. the sensor would need a hole for access, and be taped down over the heat element on the floor of the top cage.
- As for heating the lower cage, probably belly heat again, thought you would do well to use radiant heat panels in each instead of heat tape, but then your spending quite a bit more.
- The holes currently drilled are providing minimal ventilation if any.
- Easy to install an 18" fluorescent light in each cage, perhaps up in the corner along the side.
- If you expect a basking species the yes, as per amarilrose I would do a cutout on the ceiling of the top cage, hardward cloth and dome lighting atop.
- You could keep the incandescent light if you go with a ground dwelling lizard like a skink instead of a snake. I did that once.

Member Comment

11/15/2008 10:47:38 AM

AAS

If you want to know how hot a 40 watt bulb gets, try grabbing it for more than seconds while lit.

Member Comment

11/15/2008 11:01:07 AM

amarilrose

Bravo AAS! :) I agree.

Also, on the suggestion of sealing the wood cage (I am interpreting the "chipboard" as being OSB -- which will REALLY need a good seal), check out Kaiyudsai's blog from November 3rd. He used a fiberglass resin, which sounded really good!

Author Comment

11/15/2008 11:04:36 AM

Sparkle

Unfortunately all 4 of my snakes are semi-arboreal, but I needed something immediately for my 5' carpet and the double tank was the same price as a 55 gal aquarium (plus it already has the heat tape). I am lining the entire inside of the tank with a thin sheet of melamine, and caulking all edges, so that I can sanitize it (plus the plywood is holding smells and I'm not having a whole lot of luck getting them out). I'm not worried about the existing vent holes since I'll be putting the melamine over the back, I was going to cut new vents after I line the tank. I'll go with the larger hole and plastic vent cover.

My concern is heat, since all my snakes are seldom on the ground, and the only heat comes from the heat tape. I have several Zoomed 500R thermostats (one for each snake) and when the snake moves so will the thermostat. The lower compartment will be warmer since it has heat tape below and above. If I run another heat tape above the top enclosure, or even on the side near the top, will that do?

Do carpets and boas need basking LIGHTS, or will radiant heat above their perch do?

Member Comment

11/15/2008 12:30:14 PM

AAS

I'm no expert on carpets, you'll have to check care sheet sites for that I think. My bredli's python loves to climb and bask, that's typical for them, and there's not a whole lot better looking than a group of quality JCP's hanging out on branches in a well lit, tall enclosure. I guess it depends on which type of carpet pythons you're keeping.

I have a similar DIY setup, very similar to what you're doing with the heat tape sandwiched between ceilings and floors, the wood frame and melamine type interior, caulking. I have fluorescent lighting, little computer fans blowing in now and then, and a modest thermostat installed in one of the enclosures right over the floor where the heat element is, it seems pretty safe. I use them for moist and dry habs, no problem so far. That looks like 11" or 13" heat tape in the photo I think, running full front to back, I mean it will create a hot floor and provide a little ambient heat, but it all depends on where the cage is (basement, cement floor, etc.) and such. If in the basement, you'll need to pump in more heat, if on the floor of a bedroom, you'll only need a hot spot, etc. Hard to say if it will be "enough." But first you want to know exactly what your' species needs, and then check temps before putting them inside.

I've never been a fan of heat tape along the side of an enclosure, it only heats the wall and dissipates otherwise. Personal choice.

Assisted Answer

11/15/2008 1:15:49 PM

Jeffriey

There are some cover here if you really want to use them.
https://my1.bizshop.com.au/reptiletrader/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=30_76
I only use basking lights for my Iguana and Monitors and they sit above the wire covers. Any lighting in my snake enclosures are there just there for my own viewing purposes only and not used as a heat source.

As per AAS the vent holes being low on one end and high on the other is to provide a natural air flow through the cage. How effective it actually is I'm not sure. Any of my cages are vented out through the back.

Kaiyudsai has some pretty good plans he sent me once. I was very impressed with the enclosure he made. You could make a tall version for your carpets.

Member Comment

11/15/2008 1:21:12 PM

Jeffriey

These covers attach right to your lamps.
http://cagesbydesign.com/entity/tabid/76/c-4-lighting.aspx

Author Comment

11/15/2008 1:49:07 PM

Sparkle

Yes, Kai shared with me the plans that he purchased, they are very nice and I'll be using those to make the taller cages when I get around to it. NICE the CagesByDesign site has a fluorescent light AND a cage to go around it! WOOT! Thanks Jeffriey!

AAS and Amarilrose, thanks for the input! (and to answer the question, the "snake room" is a spare bedroom, 2nd floor, nice and warm).

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