Also, I have been dusting with calcium/herpativite a few times a week, which is my normal routine. 

check to see if he didn't injur his tongue... This happened to my veiled after he was bitten by a superworm.  He slwed and eventually stopped eating.  Then his tongue became quite useless.  I had to resort to hand-feeding soft-bodies worms... Also, I wouldn't do the Ca (straight, no D3) more then 2 times a week, and the herpavite on a different night once a week.  If I remember correctly (it's been a few years since I've had chams), they can get whacked out on their vitamin regimen pretty easily.  Also, check your lights, how old are they?  Flourescent UVB needs to be changed every 3-4  months.  MVB can go 6 months to a year...  Has the heat gone up with the increased ambient heat of the warmer months?  Even if you don't change the parameters, mother nature changes things up as the summer approaches, making it more hot & humid.  I don't recall shed making any difference.  The only ther thing I can think of is that he is tired of the same old thing... can you get your hands on some other types of feeders to change things up?  I used to cycle silkworms (a fav of many of my chams), crix, roaches, hornworms, cultured flies, and the occasional carefully selected wild-caught moth.  Also, what are your settings?  What's the hot spot, the ambient temp? the ambient humidity?  what's his cage like?  what's the photo-period? do you offer full-spectrum lighting?

Good luck.  Hope he is just tired of his current offerings.  

I just recently replaced my UVB bulb.  And also, I hadn't taken into account the seasonal change causing a significant change in my change.  Humidity typically stays around 65%.  I had wondered if he possibly grown tired of the same old routine, so if this continues, I may go get some silk worms.  I don't remember the exact dimensions of his cage. I want to say 2'x3'x4'.  His cage is completely free flow, and the lights (and basking spot) are on the top, to allow a nice temperature gradient from the top to bottom of the cage.  The photo-period is about 14-16 hours of daylight.  I really appreciate all of the recommendations.  I will take all of this into consideration.  I will probably try changing the "menu" up first if this continues. 

Moving to answers... and please follow up, this is an interesting one.

I meant to say I haven't changed heat, light, or humidity patterns.

Is your Veiled a girl or boy? If its a girl it may have slowed down on eating because she is gravid and will lay eggs soon, so you will have to set up an egg laying box for her. How old is it? Once they reach a certain age they stop eating as much as they did as babies. Since the weather is warmer you will really have to watch the temp in the cage, on hotter days its a good idea to turn the heat light (UVA) off. Also make sure to mist the veiled more frequently then normal or it will become deyhdrated, you don't want to wait for its eyes to become sunken in then thats a sign its badly deydrated. Loss of appitite may also mean its stressed out. If you don't already have it in a screen cage, that could also be a reason. The diet you are feeding it sounds fine as long as you make sure to gutload your crickets and mealworms before feeding them to your cham. If you start to give it silk worms all the time it might completely stop eating crickets and super worms, use silk worms only as a treat once every few weeks.  I would recommend placing a small leaf of romane lettuce,collard greens, or mustard greens on a branch in the cage for it to eat; at first it may ignore it since you haven't been feeding it greens since birth but eventually it will come around to nibbling on it. Veileds are omnivores by nature thats why you have to put only non toxic plants in their enclosure.

Its a male, and I was using baby food for a few weeks, and it never really touched it, so I quit using it.  I may try reintroducing it.  I don't think its an adult yet, so I dont know if it would slow its eating.  Its only around 8 months old.  Thanks for the input, I was already thinking about the baby food, so I may try that. 

Adam, I'm confused... baby food?  The only time I ever heard of using baby food with chams was with a severely malnourished cham that wouldn't eat on it's own, and then it was used with syrynge feeding...  JameJameC was talking about placing leaves of greens around the cage.  I used non-toxic plants to suplement their diets, Hibiscus plants, that they would munch on occasionally.  

MdngtRain is correct, I did not mean to put baby food in the cage, thats usually only used to feed certain geckos with. If he has developed his pattern and is showing his colors more frequently then that means he is closer to adulthood, how mature he is all depends on how fast he is growing. Males can start breeding  starting  at 8 months to a year if not earlier sometimes. 

I actually have placed greens around his cage before, but he typically wouldn't touch that either. He wasn't too fond of the baby food either, but took to it better than the greens (which seems strange, because the baby food I used was just extremely diced greens). I had never heard of it either, but the breeder that I got him from told me about it.  I fed it organic also to make sure it wasn't too processed.  However, he seems to be regaining his appetite, and all I did was modify his feeding patterns.  I typically place all of the food in his food bowl (so, 5 to 6 superworms).  I changed it to where I do two feedings of 3 superworms, and he seems to be eating all of it each time now.  I occasionally let his food free-roam in his cage so he can "hunt", but dont like to do it often because I worry about crickets or superworms injuring him, especially at night (I try to get all uneaten food out at night, but have missed some before. 

baby food..um if he hasn't eating in 2 days..pry his mouth open and put ca+ dipped crickets..it is not unusual to have to hand feed your chameleon at some point in its life..keep track of how many crickets it is eating..you may have to feed 2 to 3 x a day..depending on how much he wants to eat at a time..if he is not using his tongue..try buying sum vitamin A capsles and puting a drop on 1 cricket for 3 days..then stop..too much vit A will kill the liver..make sure that animal is hydrated..

also make sure you are gut loading crickets at least six hours before you feed..and 3 mealworms a day is not enough..6 in a setting at first.....PLEASE stop the baby food..please..

Different Ways to Feed and Administer Ca+ to a Chameleon

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