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Lace[Sanzinia '16 F]

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Date	Action
10/28	Weight - 2,800 grams
03/27	Weight - 3,400 grams -gravid weight
09/08	Feeding - (1) Rat - Pups
08/17	Feeding - (1) Rat - Pups
07/30	Feeding - (1) Rat - Pups

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Animal Name:	Lace
Reference Code:	Sanzinia '16 F
Species:	Madagascar Tree Boa Sanzinia madagascariensis
Sex:	Female
Birthdate:	8/1/2015
Comments:	1st litter Sept. 12, 2018 ---- ----- ----- ---- ---- --- 2nd litter July 5, 2020 .........------------65-70 at night and 75-80 in the day .... .... ... Neonates Keep at 80F. I'm not a tub/rack fan. They are far more arboreal for their first 4 years of life. As adults they get so big/heavy they become more terrestrial. A tall (12" or so) tank or similar with branches/perches and maybe a basking spot at 82F-84F may be utilized. A hide on the floor will more likely be the preferred daytime abode. I typically have lightly moistened sphagnum moss in the hides. Ambients in the low 80s will be good for the first few years. They are nocturnal and at this age are more keyed to feed at night. Later on they'll feed day or night, as soon as you open the cage door they will hit the first thing that moves so be forewarned! They love to soak but hate being misted! So a water bowl large enough for complete immersion is necessary. The babies are defensively nippy and can actually draw blood! But, if you just reach in and pick them up they won't bite at all....you have to wiggle a hand or finger in front of them....at which time they'll feel threatened and strike. I have never had an adult try to bite me in 7+ years of keeping Sanzinia. Feed the babies small hopper sized mice or large peach fuzzies. All these were housed in small clear Kritter Keeper "tubs" app. 7"x4"x5" in size. I used a soldering iron to put holes up high and ran small diameter wooden dowels across both sideways and lengthwise. They perched on the dowels exclusively. I started them by simply tossing in live hoppers....usually constricting them w/in 5 minutes and this was during the day. To get them on thawed, long tongs are mandatory because if they feel threatened they'll often tuck their heads under their coils, at which time the feeding session is over. I get the item actually HOT to the touch, present it close enough for them to pick up on the heat, and twitch it a bit. After a few meals like this the super-heating part won't be necessary. Feed one item/week. They have fairly fast metabolisms as babies and their large heads allow for larger prey items. At about 6 mos. of age can go to two items per feeding. I would take care not to overheat neonates. As yearlings onwards they can tolerate amazing extremes....90F to 55F, too wet, too dry. Just doesn't seem to faze them. BREEDING Probably premature but what the hell right? I cycle in Vegas around Oct. 1. At this time the room peaks at 82F and drops to 70F naturally. I begin shortening the day period by an hour. Nov. 1 or so I drop another 1.5 hrs. of the day and only allow the cages to get to 75F for 4 hours. By 12/1 they are hopefully dropping into the 60s at night and the day cycle is shortened another hour. I start pairing then. SANZINIA WILL COPULATE YEAR 'ROUND but no fertile litters will develop unless properly cooled. By the end of Dec. I let them drop to 55F with a DTH of 68F-70F for 4 hours. The day cycle should now be at 7 hrs. with the rest being "night" with no heat at all. I leave the male in until copulations are over then pull him, and repeat every 4 days. The drop to 55F period should last a month then reverse the process. I pair through the end of January. I firmly believe they should be housed separately as adults and only paired for breeding. Just my personal opinion but Boids/Pythons housed together year 'round respond to stimuli-changes less than do those that are paired in a "random" encounter as they would in the wild. A rambling narrative I know, if I glossed over anything feel free to ask for more detail.

Comments

Comment From MegF, Posted At: 9/3/2015 9:40:17 PM

Gorgeous animals!

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