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Q: Rescue Blood Python Not Feeding
Posted By:

UnCadere

I recieved a rescue blood python that is in pretty bad shape. I've tried to feed and force feed but he just spits out anything I can get him to start, anyone have any tips or tricks that may help? And he's only about a foot long but very thin so any help would be appriciated and no there are no reptile vets out here, and only one that will even look at them.


Points: 250
Topics: General Health , Feeding
Tags: Blood, Brongersmai, Feeding, Python, Rescue
Species: Pythons > Pythons > Python brongersmai
Administrative: Show/Hide

Assisted Answer 1/25/2011 10:13:53 AM

Sonja K. Reptiles

How long have you had him? I think it would help, too, if you could describe the set up you have for him - including temps, humidity and type of substrate? 

 
Author Comment 1/25/2011 11:24:24 PM

UnCadere

About 2 weeks now, cypress bedding 85-87 on the hot spot about 76 on the cool side. roughly 65% humidity, I've worked with them before so I know there care but never had a problem feeding them before

 
Accepted Answer 1/25/2011 11:28:02 PM

NorthBrazilian

forcefeeding is something that should only be done in an extreme situation..I've only done it once in 17 years   .It is VERY stressful for the snake.. and will sometimes make them even more reluctant to feed....   ....     baby bloods are very shy... and overzealous feeding attempts will easily discourage them...   they need to be secluded.. not handled. and given adequate hiding places..  and alot of times they don't take prey off the tongs....  I always left f/t prey in the cage overnight when they were shy..... 

If this doesnt work day old f/t quail chicks works well.....        

 
Member Comment 1/26/2011 12:39:44 AM

Miss Andrea

+1 NorthBrazilian

Give it time. If he can't settle in, he probably won't eat. Give him some time to be comfortable enough to eat. If he can't wait to eat, then you got to him too late. Not every snake can be saved. And no snake can be rushed into settling in. 

 
Member Comment 1/26/2011 6:21:03 AM

riserax

I'm not really an expert, but I have problem feeders too. I found that removing the hot spot and sticking with an ambient temp of 82-84 was much better for them along with being sure their enclosure is snug. I've since removed my hot spots and moved mine to smaller enclosures and they ate! Try it out and give him/her some time. Thank you for taking it in and I wish it the best of luck! :)

 
Member Comment 1/29/2011 10:35:43 AM

bone_crusher504

easy kill the rodent or the food item put it in a pillow case with the snake tie the pillow case up leave it in his or her cage fore 3-4 hours come back and 89.99% of the time it gets eaten :).

 
Member Comment 1/29/2011 4:51:55 PM

riserax

@ bone crusher : Done that haha they ignore it every time, even sleep on it. I got them to eat though :) Thanks for the help.

 
Member Comment 1/29/2011 4:52:51 PM

riserax

Erm oops; wrong posting haha. I should've scrolled up. Please disregard.

 
Member Comment 1/29/2011 8:52:39 PM

HeadHunter

NorthBrazilian was spot on. Many times baby bloods will not take food from tongs, try the overnight trick. I usually keep my hot spot at about 82 for hatchlings as well but yours temps seem good enough that i doubt that is causing it to lose its appetite. best advise to just leave it alone for a while and try sticking the nose of the warmed prey item into the entrance of its hide.

 

Good Luck!

 
Member Comment 1/29/2011 11:53:40 PM

nocturnalcreations

What have you tried feeding him? I have a few I hatched out last year that still will only eat live fuzzies but will eat several in one day.

 
Member Comment 2/6/2011 11:36:06 AM

visceralrepulsion

i dont know a lot about this, but ive heard of people forcefeeding their snakes chicken baby food with a  plastic syringe. and you can also probably get the equipment from a vet to tube feed the snake straight into its stomach. even a non exotic vet would probably have the means to tube feed a small animal. though i know these are last resorts  and extreme measures, keep them in mind. i would first try what others have mentioned about letting the snake settle in, then trying the leaving overnight method later on. please no hateful responses, im just reporting what ive known to be done before, and if you have any helpful input that would be appreciated, but not hateful input. thanks~

 
Member Comment 2/10/2011 7:14:18 PM

kristan

I'm sorry to see that the little guy didnt make it...but in the future I would feed a small live hopper. I have done this on a few occassions with stubborn feeders and something about the movement seems to kick them into gear again. Once I get their weight up, have them settled in, etc. I start switching them over/back to f/t. I also agree with housing neos in a small cage with an optimal ambient temp (as riserax suggested) rather than providing a hot spot.

 
Member Comment 5/28/2012 3:09:25 PM

abi21491

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