If I'm not mistaken  ( wich I sometimes am )  arent Hoverbators for chicken eggs ?? there a high airflow incubator  I think you got the wrong kind  But I may be wrong

I used mine hooked up to a thermostat (Helix). Do consider that you get what you pay for, but hundreds or thousands of people have successfully hatched eggs of all kinds of reptiles in the Hova Bators. A temp gun would be a good idea to check your temps. 

I was also under the impression that the air flow models were bad at keeping humidity levels, so a gauge to measure humidity in the hatchrite would be a good idea. And yes, def put the eggs in a tub, then in the incubator. 

That sounds pretty typical or that style incubator--just like the Little Giant I used for my corn eggs. They're designed to hatch bird (i.e. chicken, quail) eggs... A bit less sensitive than snake eggs.

Anyway, you'll want to put the eggs in a container that fits in the incubator. Having them just in the incubator, no container, is asking for problems come hatching time--think baby snakes wrapping themselves around the heating element, and squeezing out through the vent holes! No good, that's for sure. So, get a container (or two, if necessary) that will fit in the incubator without hitting the heat element, and prepare it as you normally would: add hatchrite, eggs, and a light layer of moss over the top.

You should test the incubator and set the heat before you add the eggs. The best option is to throw the whole incubator on a good thermostat, and control it that way, but if you don't have a thermostat laying around, you can just use the built-in dimmer (the increase/decrease knob). Prep an egg box, minus the eggs, and put a digital thermometer inside--if it's one with a probe, you can put the probe in the box and stretch the cord so the unit is outside, where it's easier for you to read. Put the egg box inside the 'bator, and start fiddling with the dial (just small adjustments every hour or so, so it has time to adjust) until it's consistently reading out the desired temperature. Be sure to keep an eye on the temperature in the egg box, and adjust the temperature as necessary throughout the incubation period. Once you're sure the incubator is working properly and keeping a consistent temperature (let it set a day or two), you can move your eggs into the incubator. :)

the ones that are completely crushed are likely dead.

the ones that are full look awesome... the hovabator is not a scientific device; it's and insulated box with a fan and a heater and a crappy thermostat.

Thankfully, cornsnake eggs are not the most difficult to incubate... Floof suggestions are good, but too late now.

Think of corns incubating their eggs. They wrap tight and don't let moisture escape. We do the opposite. We separate them and expose all sides to air. Right there, that's why your other eggs are crushing in. Too much exposed surface area.

So what we do to compensate is hydrate a stagnant / sealed environment. If the air flow model is taking air from the outside and pushing it in, you'll kill the rest of the eggs. They need dank, they need humid. Again, think of mom. Wrapped tight, doesn't let them dehydrate by wrapping tight and keeping it as a true egg mass. all that heat, all that moisture retention is lost when we pull and separate. We have to compensate for that.

Your temps aren't likely the problem, it's more the humidity and airflow.

those two that are together are alive. make sure your hatchrite or whatever is of a good moisture level to keep those guys plump. remember, exposed areas evaporate moisture, you need and equilibrium on the outside to the inside. that "balance" will keep everything nice and stabilized.

You can get a digital temp and humidity gauge from Walmart for about $6 about half the price of the pet stores(name brands you know)and they work great.As for how to put the eggs in I would leave them in the rubbermaid container as they are and put it in the incubator.

A hovabator is a perfectly respectable incubator!  It's also only $40, but hey you get your money's worth.  I personally have hatched out ball python eggs and leopard gecko eggs in one, and I've also seen it used for savannah monitor eggs, veiled chameleon eggs, carpet python eggs, anole eggs, sulcata eggs, and of course cornsnake eggs among others.  It'll work great for you, it just takes some patience and figuring out.

put the hatchrite in a plastic cup, or tupperware, or receptacle big enough for you to fit the eggs.  It'll be much easier for you and the eggs if you can incubate them in something that you can put a lid on.  Incubate the raisin-y looking ones, too.  You never know, with proper humidity they may rehydrate.  They're still white and okay looking, it's worth a shot.  At worst they get moldy and you throw them away, at best you can rehydrate them and they'll be fine!  In my experience the hatchrite always needs a little extra water, even though the bag says you don't need to add any.

A simple thermostat like the Alife or Zilla thermostats work great at regulating temperature for about $30 instead of a helix's $130. Just crank the dial thermostat on the hovabator up and let the thermostat turn it on and off.  I wouldn't worry about a humidity gauge - watch the eggs, they'll fill back up and round out to a certain extent with correct humidity, and they'll continue to dimple if it's too dry.  You can add too much water and drown them, too, which you can't bring them back from, so it's better to be a little on the dry side rather than the wet.  A good digital thermometer will definitely be your best friend though, especially one with a min/max memory to track your temperatures. 

And, once you get it all set up, relax!  I know one lady who hatches her cornsnake eggs in tupperwares on top of her fridge every year.  If she can do it, you can do it.  :) 

So Aaron-  you are saying I need to block off any air holes in the incubator so the air doesn't circulate to much? And are you also saying that I need to burry the eggs further into the hatchrite, maybe add damp moss on top which I've already done? The temps seem steady enough they just really look unsavable up to this point except for two-three of them. And even those are just recently starting to dimple which I just do not understand why they do that since I'm incubating them and making sure the humidity is up 99% in the incubator and so I just don't know what I am doing wrong.  It's very frustrating. Anyway, thanks for all the help. I really do appreciate it. :)

I'm not saying cover them, I've never done those eggs. I'm more saying to keep in mind how they incubate with mom. I have seen that some breeders cover almost all of the egg in vermiculite.

Too much airflow and moisture escape will cause the eggs to do what they did. The environment needs to be pressurized effectively. When we cook chondro eggs, we put fans in the main chamber, but the eggs themselves are in boxes that are mostly sealed. Just like when you put your wet hands underneath a blower in a washroom; the room may be 100% humid, 90 degrees, but that blower still removes the moisture from your hands.

Too much airflow will dry them out the same.

Okay, thanks Aaron. I'm going to put lids on the containers I have the eggs in. Maybe that will do it.

I agree with Aaron, too much airflow is bad. I have hatched eggs in a Havobator before. They are really nice for a couple clutches. However I also had one with a fan. I ended up cutting the wires to it. I had to add water daily while it was running. It would just dry things out too much.

Cover about halfway up the eggs with your vermiculite or hatch rite at a 1:1 mix with water just enough to start clumping. Seal the container and watch the temp and humidity. I hatched out 7 baby corns in an aqaurium with a screen top 80%covered with a couple of inches of water at the bottom no problem.When ypu check on the eggs in the container this will circulate fresh air.you should have no problem corn snake eggs are pretty easy to hatch.

You have gotten some great responses as to what to do so I won't comment more on setting up the eggs. I did want to say though that cornsnakes are "lay and forget" snakes. They don't take care of their eggs at all, instead prefering to find a good spot (usually in rotten logs or leaf litter that is out of the way under rocks), laying their eggs and then moving on. It's also the reason they usually double clutch - if you lay lots of eggs you stand more of a chance of having at least a few live to adulthood.

Good luck with your eggs. Corns are one of the easiest to hatch out so don't give up on the good eggs!

I just wanted to thank everyone on here who helped me in this process...all the information you've given me has been very helpful and I appreciate it very much. Thanks!

I know this is wayyyyy to late to save the damage, but I hope things work out ok in the end.  This can be a good tool to show/tell others  about the importance of getting your incubator(s) set up and ready well in advance of laying in order to get the kinks out (no pun intended.)  Best of luck on the cutest baby snakes ever!  Baby corns are sweet.