If all else fails, brumation usually works. But you have to keep the animal alive up to and through brumation. 6-10 weeks of cold temps and then warmth and they usually come around.

I was just about to post what you told me Nate lol. More or less patience is all you can have with baby corns. I have 5 baby corns that I'm having to force fed, and one has figure out how to regurge the mouse tails.

I had this same problem a few years ago with a baby blizzard. Tried everything you mentioned above and nothing. I even tried cutting a F/T pinkie up into smaller pieces and force feeding, nothing. Then yesterday I found out, through the reptile magazine, that on the ReptileChannel.com/BabyCorns, there things you can try. I haven't been to the website yet, so I can't tell you what they mention. My corn didn't make it and I wish I knew about this back then. Good Luck.

Try anole scenting. You can usually by anoles at petco or pet smart for $6. Also get a very tight hidey-holes for the babies. A raisin box works well with a small door cut into the side of it. Make sure your temps are good as well. Do you have the babies housed alone in it's own shoe box tub? They like small cages when they are babies.

If none of this works you can try scenting with a toad as well if you can catch one where you live. Here is NC they are pretty easy to find.

Between each feeding try leave the snake alone for a few days.

Also, try adding a burrowing substrate so they feel more secure. I see in your picture that you have a tp roll as a hide. I would try a hide with four walls, ceiling and floor and a small door (a little bit bigger then the width of their body) like the raisen box I suggested. Leave the snake alone (don't even check on it) for three to four days after you put in the burrowing substrate and tiny boxes in. Then try feeding it a pinky while it is in its hidey-hole. Wiggle the mouse in front of the door.  If it does not take it then put the mouse's head in the door and leave it there over night.

In my experience most of baby cornsnake or kingsnake eating problems come from insecurity or temperature issues.

I would go back to trying brained pinks. Put the snake in a deli cup (preferably one that is not clear), drop in the brained pink, put the cup on a household heat pad set on low in a drawer or dark room overnight. I know you've already tried the braining thing, but it can't hurt to try it again. Another trick I've used is live 1-5 day old gerbil pinks. And live ASF Rat pinks. Doing this persistently has worked with my Corns, Gophers, Kings, Milks, Mangrove, Flowered Racer, Sand Boas, Rosies, Hoggies, Carpets, Scrubs, etc. Doesn't work every time, but it does eventually work.

So much advice yet it all depends on the snake. I had a non-feeder I had literally given up on. She got so thin, like the wire cord for my phone charger thin. Then one day I left her with a pinky mouse head and the rest is history. I have fed cut off adult mice tails to hold them over, and hope the next thing you try works. I've heard good things about brumations, so maybe force feed and see if he gains any weight and then try brumation?

Anyway, I wish you the best of luck. I've heard crazy things people have tried and it worked for them. So who really knows what the best thing to do is when even the outlandish can prove successful. I hope he pulls through!!!

Im to the point where my non feeders are being force fed whole pinkies. It sucks! Once they brumate, assuming they survive the long period of cold without food, they will eat when it warms up.

Thanks for all of you're help. I appreciate it so much. I will try some of them here in the next few days.

I have one that started eating after I washed & then scented them with fish oil (from a fish oil capsul).

Another trick that has worked for me is washing the pinky, then putting a tiny piece of anole shed on the pinkies head. Works like a charm.

Good luck!

+1 jennifer

but i definitely would make sure they have very small hides, i finaly figured out why one of my corns is so feisty, becaus he had almost no place to feel curled up and safe. i would lift up his way oversized hide to find him striking at me, and when i would lift up his water bowl when he hides under it, to find him much calmer. so size of hide definitely matters.

Paper bag... seriously. Put the sorn in a small paper bag with a pinky, fold over the top and staple it shut (not tight obviously) place it in a warm area and check it in a few hours or the next day. You can put a wet paper towel in there for some moisture if leaving overnight. 

You might just get patient. I recently got my little problem feeder to suddenly start eating on his own after MONTHS of force feeding after trying everything.

Some problem feeders just never eat, no matter what you do, but since you've tried just about everything, the only suggestions that I have seen work (sometimes) that are not on your list are washing the F/T pinky with non-scented Ivory bar soap, scenting with the water from a can of tuna, taking the snake for a drive in the car (not a quick 5 minute drive, a nice longer drive, preferably over bumpy road, at least in part), and if you are able to find any, a live baby anole.  You can try another lizard species, depending upon what you are able to find.

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