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Q:
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Effective and safe ways to regulate ph and condition water in viquarium?
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II'm going to be setting up a Tetra Fauna viquarium tank set up in hopefully the next 2 weeks or so, as I acquire all of the needed features, accessories, etc for it. This will be my first one, being used for a semi-aquatic/mostly aquatic snake, but most likelt my new Mud Snake I'm about to obtain througha a pal with a 1.1 pair. Has anyone every set one up for a snake particularly? What do you find the most effective way to reach your ideal ph and other balances in the water? Can products such as *Seachem Neutral Regulator 250gram* & *Seachem Acid Buffer 300gram* be used safely with aquatic type reptiles such as Mud's or Black Swamp Snakes to condition, regulate, and maintain a specific ph or at least somewhat an ideal you are trying to attain? Can sphagnum moss be used as effectively as peat moss to control the ph of your viqarium or other aquatic reptile set up? In summary, do you know about any of this, these products, and what would you recommend from personal experience? From what I've read the Seachem products can be used with any species of freshwater fish or amphibians, could this include reptiles?
Seachem Neutral Regulator™ adjusts pH to neutral (pH 7.0) from either a low or high pH and maintains it there. It softens water by precipitating calcium and magnesium while removing any chlorine, chloramine, or ammonia. The use of Neutral Regulator™ makes other conditioning unnecessary. To lower pH below 7.0 use Neutral Regulator™ with Acid Regulator™ (or Discus Buffer™). To raise pH above 7.0 use with Alkaline Regulator™. All of these products will enhance and stabilize the freshwater aquarium environment. In addition to Neutral Regulator’s™ superior buffering capacity, it will remove chlorine and chloramine, bind ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, stimulate slime coat production, and buffer the pH to 7.0.
Acid Buffer™ is a non-phosphate buffer to lower pH and buffer with Alkaline Buffer™. Both buffers are designed for the planted aquarium or for very hard water where phosphate buffers may pose an algae or cloudiness problem. Acid Buffer™ lowers pH and buffers between 5.0 and 8.0 when used with Alkaline Buffer™. As Acid Buffer™ lowers pH it converts carbonate alkalinity (KH) into available CO2. It may also be used to safely lower pH in marine water. What distinguishes Alklaine Buffer™ from other buffers is that it does not contain phosphates. This makes it ideal for the planted aquarium, where excess phosphate could contribute to undesirable algae growth.
If you want to hear more specifically and get an idea of how I'm going to set up my viquarium in my 55 G tank, check out my soon to be posted blog on "My new viqiarium set-up". Thanks. =] Bwlow is a sample photo of a viqiarium set-up similar to what I plan to do with mine since it has land on both sides, and some nice plants, and is a 55 gallon too for a nice example in size. Though I'm not getting over-zealous with decorative plants =p.
Attached Photos:
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Assisted Answer
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10/29/2012 8:46:02 PM
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MdngtRain
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with fish, i've found that the artificial (chemical) changes to pH only last a short while. The use of driftwood, peat & certain stones (tho not exactly sure which ones, just remember reading about it) work much better to change for the long term. I don't know about aquatic herps, but it works with the fish. I'm hoping someone else will add their knowledge.
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Accepted Answer
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10/30/2012 4:40:52 AM
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LotusCorvus
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Disclaimer: All my knowledge on this subject comes from tropical fish.
You can get peat that goes in a filter media bag if you have a filter with enough extra space, otherwise a hunk of driftwood in the water is good for lowering pH, good for south american/asian species usually, or the most common rock for raising pH is Texas something rock (holey? it's a beige-ish rough sort of sandstone looking rock), thats usually good for african species. For long-term I'd definitely go with one of those options, they keep the levels much more constant as opposed to the liquid additives which you have to readjust every time you change/clean the water (and unless you're doing 100% water changes, which is bad for the good bacteria, you won't be adding the same amount every time). I doubt that sphagnum moss will have the same effect as peat. Depending on how finnicky your snake is, you shouldn't need to do much more than keep the water clean and add a conditioner/dechlorinator every time you add fresh water.
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Assisted Answer
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10/30/2012 9:01:30 AM
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amarilrose
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I like using "black wood" for perches for my ATBs... and I get it from fish people.
Given how they talk about it, I would try to find out if black wood might buffer and maintain a certain pH for you, as I suspect it may do so even better than an average piece of drift wood. :) I'm a bit behind on actual fish care & pH balancing these days.
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Author Comment
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10/30/2012 10:22:17 PM
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visceralrepulsion
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Awesome, thanks guys! I'd prefer a natural solution to a chemical one. I will do some research on the different methods mentioned to see if one is best, and if one can keep my ph where I need it more than another can. It's very crucial to maintain the balanced ph of 6-7, and 6.5 is ideal. These snakes will blister, and can even die from them if ph is too high, and probably detrimental to be too low too. The enclosure will allow swimming and soaking as wanted by the snake, but I don't want in adverse effects from prolonged soaking. Going to keep the question open for a bit and see what else comes up. But will make sure you all get some credit =]
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Member Comment
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5/24/2013 11:47:42 AM
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Member Comment
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6/7/2013 11:01:39 AM
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Cenobite
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