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Q:
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Weight Loss/Hoggie Holdout - Time for vet trip?
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My hognose male Tamaki has lost about 15% of his body weight and last fed on a hopper on 9/28/2012. He was weighing in at 37 grams when he was taking weekly or once every 2 week meals and is now 32 grams. I know hoggie males are notorious for holding out and not eating so I'd really like some second opinions on whether I'm being paranoid or it's time for a vet trip/something.
Feeding - He was eating prekilled hoppers. So far I've tried live hoppers, live fuzzies, brained hoppers, brained fuzzies, putting him in a deli cup with a prekilled large fuzzie overnight, boiled smallish hopper. I'm gonna try covering the front of his viv for a week-ish and offering live fuzzie again. He hasn't shown much interest in tuna broth, chicken broth, or salmon as "scenting" before so I have yet to try those again.
Viv -

He's in a 10 gallion with 8 watt UTH on right 1/3 of tank on a Hydrofarm Digital Thermostat set at 90 degrees but actual fluxuations in temp vary from 87.9 - 91 degrees on hot side. The light is a 20 watt bulb on a day/night timer - 16 hours light/8 hours dark and during the day is the reason why the hot side gets to 91 degrees at times. Cool side runs 67-70 degrees in the night time and 70-73 degrees in day. Three sides and bottom are enclosed by thin insulation sheeting (for heat resistance). Bottom 1/3 of insulation under tank on the left side is cut out and glass is left bare. Substrate is reptile carpet covered by paper towels. Water bowl in middle, Hot and cold hides are hidden under leaves of fake plants for "cover." Screen wire top with locking hatch door on top..
Observations on current condition - Eyes clear, mouth clean and pink inside, no dots or discoloration on skin between scales, no wheezing, burbling etc. Running my thumb over his vertabre (spine), feels no different than Kyouya's (other hognose) as far as I can tell. Regularly witness him drinking water. He is active during his usual times - late morning, early evening, and right after his light clicks off but not frantic or frenzied. One piece shed, including eyecaps on 11/05. Most recent poo was on 12/08 (I even took a picture for you guys)

Is it time for a vet trip? Am I missing something obvious I should change? Should I be patient longer? Any suggestions on what feeding trick to try next?
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Member Comment
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12/18/2012 10:26:58 PM
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NikiP
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Don't know where you are located, but do you still have anoles running around outside? Seems they like the scent of those.
In a pinch I used my African fat tail gecko to scent pinkies for my trans pecos. Worked 
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Member Comment
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12/18/2012 10:38:35 PM
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Zombiegirl
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I don't have much imput on this other than my former roommate had a little hoggie that she never could get to eat on his own...she rescued him from a friend, resorted to force feeding him every time and eventually re-homed him to a local rescue in hopes they could get him to eat. I sincerely hope you can get this little one to eat for you again. Good luck
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Assisted Answer
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12/18/2012 11:29:17 PM
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Doomtrooper
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My male hogs have been off feed for months even my girls are being fussy you may want to concider brumating him if he isn't going to eat
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Accepted Answer
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12/19/2012 5:32:11 AM
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FyreFocks
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At this point I have to assume that all hog males just brumate themselves. I don't think you should worry too much. Just reduce how often you offer food so it stops being a waste of your money.
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Author Comment
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12/19/2012 9:53:46 AM
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tumbledgemstone
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Should I do the whole brumating or just leave him in his current set up do you think? He's probably got an empty system and ready for brumation.
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Author Comment
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12/19/2012 10:09:13 AM
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Assisted Answer
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12/19/2012 11:27:05 AM
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CreepyCrawly
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I am assuming you have airflow between your UTH and the insulation, or the glass. Otherwise, even with a thermostat heat could build up and crack the glass or start a fire. But like I said I'm sure you left air flow. Not that it'd cause your hoggie's non-feeding anyhow.
I don't know all that much about hogs, but my adult Rosys put themselves into brumation, and just quit eating. I had to move them to another room so that I might be able to get cool enough. I am still giving them water. With some snakes (as far as I'm aware) if they try to brumate and you don't take the temperature down, they could lose too much weight, because their metabolisms are still burning the same amount of fuel. If you cool them off, it slows down their metabolism, so they don't lose so much weight (if any at all). But I am not 100% sure this applies to hognoses.
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Member Comment
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12/19/2012 3:49:13 PM
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FyreFocks
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Just kill the heat. That is it. And yes, change the water frequently. Other than that, just leave the little guy alone.
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Author Comment
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12/27/2012 11:18:51 PM
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tumbledgemstone
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Niki - Nothing is running around here, too cold! But thank you!
I'd going to drop him into brumation. Seems like what he wants to do anyways. Thanks for the advice! I increased the airflow between my UTH and insulation just in case, CreepyCrawly. :)
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