I have used both RHP's and Ultratherm UTH's on both cages. I do not like flexwatt and don't understand why more people dont use Ultatherm. You don't even need a tstat.

I had to drill additional holes in the CNW for extra cords, but in the AP's I just run them trhough the ven slots in the rear of the cage.

RHP's WILL need to be mounted to interioir of the cage.

Lead times for the CNW were about 4-6 weeks. My AP's were quick ship.

Yes, as long as the footprint is the same they can stack.

If you used a RHP in one and then stacked another cage on top, the RHP will provide nice belly heat to the cage above.

George, I would like to caution you to get a tstat - I was babysitting a friend's two pythons when she spent a year in England. they'd been on the same ultratherms for over a year. about 3 months after they came to live with me, one of the ultratherms malfunctioned and burned the hell out of one of the pythons. several months of rehabbing later, she was OK...but will always have the scars.  

this is my personal experience, the ultratherm wasn't old or anything. I've also heard anecdotal evidence from others, of them overheating. 

I don't trust ANY heat mat without temp regulation.

I've been running mine non stop for over 2 years now with no issue. I have never temp gunned them and had them read over 95 this entire time. The wattage just doesn't allow it. They aren't even taped to the cages. They are sitting on a wire shelf that provides great air flow and the cage just sits about an 1/8" above the pad. 88-89 degress in the cage every single time.

Both are great companies, but one thing that I prefer AP over CNW is the sliding glass doors. CNW doesn't offer that.

Started off with AP racks a while back, and have since added some T10 caging, and I love them!

I'll be doing the RHP as Sonja mentioned, alternating every other cage.

Is there much of a gap with the sliding doors? The one I definitely need is for my coachwhip.

The biggest downside to AP is the turn around time, but I preplan my setups, so it works out just fine. 

There is a gap, but I can't even get a pencil in there.

There is a little bit, but mine fit fairly close.

I don't know about Coachwips, so I don't know if it they would rok or not for you.

I think they'd be fine for a big enough coachwhip. 

Ok, so I have 2 Ultratherm heat pads. I just went and checked the temps on one of them. It is under my converted 55 gallon front opening tank. There are the rubber feet under each corner and in the middle of both front and back. I keep it hooked up to a dimmer and it is currently at the haltway point of the slide. Using a laser temp gun, the pad itself is at 115F. Within the hide, through the glass and on top of the indoor/outdoor carpet that is above the heat pad, it is 91F.

George, I am guessing the reason you've not experienced higher temps than 95F is because of the openess under yours. If sandwiched between two cages or under an aquarium, even with the little rubber feet, I would definitely see the potential for an animal to get burned. Unfortunately, most people will not have the air flow yours has, and that makes me worry since I know the pads are advertised that a T-Stat isn't needed, and how many don't use a temp gun to see what the actual temp of their snake's hot spot is.

Personally I can't chance not having things on thermostats on anything. Have to many snakes that can't do even into the 90's.

If the separation of the sliding panels is that thin, that would work for me. They are a slender species, but that not slender

AP's T-8 is a quick ship, you will have it in about 10 days. Sliding glass doors are the only way to go, acrylic doors will warp over time. You snake will not escape between the gap between the door panes.

Couple more questions.

Who has better venting? Although I see I can order a 20" cut out with the AP cages.

Are AP cages put together with similar grooves to CNW? That's really attracting me to CNW over AP so far. Would be nice to be able to get everything in place & the plants going before adding the top.

Well, I could get away with a 18" tall if the top could go on last. If not, I still think I need a 23-30" tall so I can physically get arms/tools in there to get plants in,

I have no clue about the venting as i have never needed it.

The AP's are not dove-tailed like the CNW's. But I honestly can't tell a difference in sturdiness between the 2. Both are rock solid.

Yes, the top goes on last on the AP when putting it together.

AP are grooved, they fit together very nicely. I have a bunch of them that I am putting together now, let me know if you want photos of anything and I'll message you some. 

APs have excellent ventilation, they have groove cut out in the back and there's a cross breeze with the sliding doors. I have 15qt tubs for water bowls in my T8s and have never had a problem with mold. I did have a mold problem with Boaphile and had to add ventilation to that piece of crap.

The top does go on last. I build the cage, seal the bottom seams, then add the lights and heat panel to the top before I install it on the cage. 

For a cage that tall, I'd totally go with the AP for the center support in front. I've seen CNW cages sag, AP don't sag because of the front support. I thought that support would drive me nuts, but it does not.

Thanks all Definitely going with AP, will order in a couple of days to make sure I make the right decision. Leaning towards a T10, but seeing if I can squeeze a T13 into my critter room.