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Q: MITES INFESTATING MY CULTURES!!!! How do I get rid of these?
Posted By:

Herpetological_Girl

After cleaning out a bunch of dried out fruit fly cultures, I noticed what appeared to be a white "powder" that somehow managed to get in and around the cracks of the jar openings. Upon further investigation, they were ALIVE! I know that they are mites, and I don't know how to get RID of them! They're EVERYWHERE! They're not on my animals, but they are all over my table that I have the cultures on.... How do I get rid of them???

Points: 250
Topics: Feeding
Tags: Mites
Administrative: Show/Hide

Member Comment 6/9/2009 9:51:03 PM

Floof
First thought, I'd say bleach all the infested areas and toss out the infested jars (after bleaching them, too, of course). I don't have any experience with mites, though, and it's boggling... I thought mites were black?? -shrug-
 
Member Comment 6/9/2009 9:56:33 PM

FieldTrialTrainer

Go get some front line spray from a feed store/vet or provent a mite.

You can also use olive oil ON the snakes and like flood said bleach.

I prefer Chlorhexadine solution. It's safer as it is used in the medical field as surgical scrub

 
Member Comment 6/9/2009 9:57:24 PM

FieldTrialTrainer
Sorry not bleach on the animals, haha that seemed to run on but obvious what i meant.

 
Member Comment 6/9/2009 9:57:45 PM

Sylvias
Yeah i have never seen white mites, only red and black (however red mites might be white when they are starving and have no blood in them).... none the less bleach the hell out of everything might be worth while to get a bottle of provent-a-mite...
 
Member Comment 6/9/2009 10:41:23 PM

Nicky2303
i have seen white mites in birds nest, but i think these people have the right idea on what to do. lol
 
Member Comment 6/9/2009 11:21:20 PM

Morticias Mojo
Something that was shared with me by a local is this: Use the Nix treatment for lice, but dilute it 50/50.  Wipe everything down with it to kill them, then do your normal cleaning.  She said she's used it on her snakes as well with no ill results.  The other answers are great... just thought I'd toss in an alternative that was news to me. =o)
 
Assisted Answer 6/9/2009 11:38:54 PM

Katie M
the white mites are normally a wood mite - what kind of substrate are you using? while not harmful to your snake, they can still be irritating.  Depending on your substrate, you may need to "cook" or freeze the substrate before use to kill these kids off - I often found them when I was still using reptile bark.  Good luck!
 
Author Comment 6/10/2009 12:11:02 AM

Herpetological_Girl
Haha well I dunno where all this snake stuff came from, but I don't have any snakes.  (not yet at least). And yea, these aren't parasitic mites, they are wood mites. How they got in, I dunno. And they have infested my fruit fly cultures for my animals :/ I can supplement with pinhead crickets for the mean time, but it pisses me off to know that I've lost 3 months worth of cultures in a matter of a week and a half :/ SO LAME!!

Is the "Nix" treatment available OTC? I cannot use bleach on anything as these are mostly amphibians. I prefer to stay as far away from harsh chemicals as I can.  So breaking down their enclosure, bleaching, SUPER rinsing, and letting it sun dry isn't an option.... They are also mostly arboreal, so if they are not bare bottom tanks they are lined with sphagnum moss. :/

Any frog enthusiasts that have any experience on this matter??

Thanks for the input guys :)

~Abby
 
Member Comment 6/10/2009 12:23:34 AM

Floof
Lol! Sorry... I think we all automatically think "snake" when we hear "mites." Curse us one-track-minded snake people!!!

Chlorhexadine was suggested earlier. Maybe that would be safer for the amphibians? As for the Nix, we humans use a lot of really harsh crap on ourselves. I'd have to question if it would be safe for frogs, even pretty heavily diluted.
 
Member Comment 6/10/2009 12:28:31 AM

Morticias Mojo
Here in Oregon you can buy Nix over the counter.  It's what many parents use for head lice when their kids get it in school. Here is a link on it.
www.nixlice.com/
 
Assisted Answer 6/10/2009 12:34:59 AM

Morticias Mojo
Here is more information on it, and it does include amphibians and reptiles...

Why Nix?

Nix was designed to treat human head lice and their nits (eggs).  The one characteristic that separates the Nix method for treating snake mites from other mite remedies is its effectiveness at killing live mites AND mite eggs.  All other mite remedies to my knowledge do not destroy mite eggs.  As such, I have found the Nix method to be extremely effective at eradicating serious mite infestations.  I even know of a pet store manager who sells several commercially produced mite remedies, yet uses the Nix method on imported snakes arriving at his store.  Another pro to using Nix is economics.  Around $12 will produce 4 litres of solution – much more than the largest private collection will ever require. 

There exists a popular reptile care site on the Internet that discusses the toxicity of Nix, but in the two cases cited, Nix was spread over the infested snakes in full concentration.  Common sense should dictate that reptiles and amphibians coming in direct contact with any fully concentrated chemical that does not occur in their natural environment would yield deleterious, if not downright fatal, results.  The use of Nix discussed below involves a diluted solution (1 part Nix to 68 parts water) that has never produced adverse reactions in any python or boa in my collection over the course of 6 years.  In fact, some snakes in my collection are proactively treated every 6 months as they make appearances at semi-annual reptile shows and I am not willing to risk the chance of mites from other exhibitors making their way into my collection.  Even routine treatments on these boas and pythons over the course of several years have yet to result in any negative effects.

Materials

  • Spray bottle.  Preferably one that has never been used, or at the very least, one that has never contained harsh chemicals and has been thoroughly rinsed.
  • 56 g (59 ml) bottle of Nix.  I have only ever found this one particular size of Nix, which can be sourced at most drug stores and some pharmacy sections of grocery stores for anywhere from  $6-$12.
  • 4L (1 Gallon) jug of distilled water.  Distilled water should be used to extend the shelf life of the solution.  With distilled water, the solution’s effectiveness is expected to last up to 12 months as long as the solution is stored at room temperature and in a covered box (light breaks down the active ingredient found in Nix).  Although, with one treatment and sound quarantine practices, the first treatment should be all that is necessary.

Creating the Nix Solution

  • Pour the Nix cream into the 4L jug of distilled water.  Nix is a fairly thick cream substance, so it may take a couple minutes to transfer as much of the cream into the jug of distilled water as possible.
  • Replace the cap on the jug of distilled water and shake until the Nix cream is evenly distributed throughout the water.  Again, this may take a few minutes due to the thick consistency of Nix.
  • Pour the Nix solution into a spray bottle.

Eradicating Snake Mites

  • If snake mites are only found on one snake or only in one snake enclosure, it is wise to conclude that mites have infested ALL snakes and their enclosures that are contained within the same room.  Mites may have also transferred to snakes housed in another room by “hitchhiking on your hands or clothes.  Therefore, absolutely all snakes and their terrariums should be treated to ensure 100% effectiveness.
  • First, remove the snake from the enclosure and place in a Rubbermaid container.  Spray the snake liberally with the Nix solution.  Do not avoid spraying this solution on their head, eyes and heat pits – in fact, this is where mites commonly hide so spraying the head area is essential.
  • Remove all substrate from the terrarium and throw away.  Do not leave the garbage bag containing this old substrate anywhere in the house.
  • Spray the entire enclosure, inside and out, including all cage furniture (branches, hide boxes, water bowl, etc.) and glass viewing area.  Make sure that all corners and crevices are well covered with Nix solution, as this is where mites and their eggs are often hiding.  Even spray the outside back of the cage and a 2-foot perimeter around the cage on the floor.  The Nix residue that forms after drying is thought to even be effective at killing mites hiding out elsewhere in the room that may attempt to re-enter the snake cage.
  • Replace the substrate with paper, preferably paper towel, as it is easy to spot mites on this.  It is essential to use paper until you are absolutely certain that full eradication has been accomplished.  I suggest waiting 3 weeks after the last live mite is spotted before using non-paper substrate.
  • Remove water bowl from cage and replace, filled with water, 24 hours later.  This ensures that the Nix solution is not washed off the snake by soaking in the water bowl before the active ingredient has had a chance to destroy all mites hiding under its scales.
  • Return the snake to its enclosure and spray it, the cage, furniture and paper one more time.
  • When the snake defecates during treatment, remove the paper and clean the messed area as usual, but be sure to re-spray the cleaned area and new paper with Nix solution.
  • Repeat in 5-7 days twice, for a total of 3 treatments.  With all likelihood, the last live mite will perish within a few hours of the first treatment, but repeating treatment is good practice in case the outbreak is severe and mites are able to re-enter cages.

Preventative Maintenance

Any snake entering a collection should be quarantined for 2-3 months, ideally in a completely separate room from where other snakes are housed, but at the very least in a separate cage.  It should be assumed that any new snake has mites, regardless of how well respected the previous owner or pet store is.  I have personally been let down on several occasions by leading breeders in our hobby, and from personal friends.  It is my experience that employing the “better safe than sorry” approach is of paramount importance in ensuring mite breakouts never occur. 

Given the above assumption new acquisitions, in addition to their cage and cage furniture, should be treated with Nix solution 3 times (one full treatment every 5-7 days).  Same should hold true when a snake enters your colony for a breeding loan, even if it is your own specimen that was lent out and is returning.  As previously mentioned, it is also wise to treat snakes that attend shows, where other exhibitors and spectators may have mite infestations.  With the large number of people that handle your animals, or even just touch the enclosure in which your snakes are housed, the chance that a mite is hitchhiking on at least one of these snake enthusiasts at the show is good.  Don’t become complacent and cut corners in this area, or you may find yourself right back where you started. 

Cage furniture and substrate purchased at pet stores can also serve as mite vectors and should be treated with caution.  Mite-free substrate can be purchased from pet stores that do not carry reptiles, from a livestock feed stores, or from landscape centres.  Newly purchased cage furniture should be sprayed liberally with Nix solution.  Highly porous cage furniture (wood hide boxes, branches, etc.) should be soaked in a 10% bleach solution for a day, then rinsed thoroughly, sprayed with Nix solution, and allowed to dry for a week. 
 

Thanks…

I would like to give thanks to Giovanni and Paula Fagioli at the Bean Farm, a reptile dry goods mail order business in Washington State, for enlightening me to the Nix snake mite treatment.  When I frantically contacted them several years ago, Giovanni suggested that I not purchase any of the commercially produced mite remedies that they stock, but to go out and buy a bottle of Nix and jug of distilled water locally.  They had used this method with outstanding results for a number of years back then and even mentioned that Roger J. Klingenberg -- D.V.M. and author of Understanding Reptile Parasites (1993.  Advanced Vivarium Systems, California.) -- was compiling clinical results of the Nix treatment for mention in a follow up to his invaluable publication. 

Helping someone out while sacrificing one’s profits, as did the Bean Farm, says a lot about one’s business practices.   

The Bean Farm can be reached via:

 
Accepted Answer 6/10/2009 1:14:23 AM

shellboa
Wow, one track snake minds...I have no personal experience with this but I was advised to simply give up these cultures as wasted, boil or bleach the infested jars and start over. Hopefully no mites have gotten into the frog cages, if so...remove amphibian, and thing washable wash it in clorhexadrine and rinse thoughroughly (not a bad idea to run these things in an empty dishwahes if its available for the sanitizing rinse. Start over with fresh bedding/substrate after also cleaning the enclosure, clorhexadrine and lots of rinsing. The bean farm sells a product called nolvasan which is a chlorhexadine containing product which also contains some other junk...I use 1 tblsp/gal of this to clean tanks and water dishes.

Good luck and I hope your tanks are not infested as well!
 
Author Comment 6/10/2009 1:12:39 PM

Herpetological_Girl
After further investigation, it looks like my only options are as follows:

- Dump all of my melanogaster cultures (20 jars or so... *sniffle*) and throw the jars in the dishwasher
- Salvage my hydei cultures (these take longer to develop, so even 1 jar is a huge loss...bah...). Dumping 2 out of 3 jars....
- Completely tear down and dishwash (sanitizing rinse) all infested enclosures (all of them except my dart frog, thank GOD)
- Buy Nolvasan. There is a difference between straight up Chlorahex and Nolvasan, as Nolvasan has been determined safe for even fish when used undiluted as a disinfecting agent followed by a rinse. :D I just had no idea where to buy the stuff!

As huge as of a set back as this is, I'm glad to have gotten such an overwhelming response. :) Thanks guys!

~Abby
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